Vieux Port, or Old Port, is the tourist center of Marseille, and of course there are plenty of hotels there. But if you want to really get to know the city, it’s a good idea to stay in one of the surrounding districts. If you’re looking for an authentic Marseille experience, the Mama Shelter hotel, located in a residential area, is an excellent choice. By day, you can get the feel of ordinary life in Marseille, and in the early evening, when nearby Cours Julien bursts into life (see 10pm), you can live it up a little with the locals crowding the bars and restaurants around the square. And don’t worry about noise – the Mama Shelter is far enough away for you to get a good night’s sleep.

Those in the know have already arrived at the fish market by around half past seven in the morning to secure the best fish. Come at ten, and there’ll be less seafood to choose from, but just as much atmosphere – suntanned fishermen selling their catch from folding tables, some loudly vying for custom, others already tending to their nets again. This picturesque scene could almost be from another time – but star architects Norman Forster and Michel Desvigne’s fully mirrored L’Ombrière canopy right next door brings visitors right back to the present. Since 2013, when the city was a European Capital of Culture, great architectural advances have been made all around the Old Port. The waterfront promenade has had a facelift and makes a pleasant walk up to the ancient Fort Saint-Jean.

A restaurant inside a shopping mall is supposed to be a gourmet tip? Most certainly. Because at the Les Terrasses du Port, which opened in 2014, you get can enjoy the best sea view in the city while you eat. The spacious terrace on the second floor, 260 meters wide, gives onto the Mediterranean and the Cruise Port and accommodates a succession of restaurants resembling a string of pearls.

The locals avoid the midday sun and only venture out of doors again at around 4pm. That’s why, if you go down to Les Catalans beach in the center of Marseilles in the early afternoon and spread out your towel on the sand, you’ll find it’s delightfully peaceful and deserted (but also very hot, of course). Compared with its big brother, Plage du Prado, this little beach is intimate and offers plenty of shadow thanks to the closely built streets that border it.

You won’t get far here without a reservation. The fish restaurant Chez Michel across from Les Catalans beach is an institution in Marseille and accordingly well frequented. Unremarkable on the outside, rustic interior – and very popular with the locals. Service begins at 8pm – we are, after all, in the south here.

Cours Julien is cool – on two counts: In the middle of this rectangular square surrounded by the graffiti-covered walls of apartment houses, there’s a large water garden with fountains that send random fine jets of water wafting across the terraces of bars and restaurants, leaving customers refreshed.

It’s been 800 years since the first chapel was built on this hill offering sweeping views over the city. Dating from 1853, the present basilica is a symbol of Marseille.

The beating heart of the city, Marseille’s port has been recently renovated, with its historic buildings offset by Norman Foster’s ultra-modern mirrored Ombrière structure.

This beautiful fifth-century monastery was originally outside the city walls but through the centuries has seen the metropolis grow around it.

Despite widespread destruction during WWII, Marseille’s Old Town remains a vibrant district housing cafés, artisan shops, narrow houses and cobbled alleyways.

This vast 19th-century cathedral (often called La Major) evokes the rich diversity of Marseille with its exotic Middle Eastern interior decoration and domed towers modelled on those in Istanbul.

Built in a distinctive star shape, this 17th-century fort on the south bank of the old port aimed to protect the city from invasion. You can arrange visits through the tourist office.

Housed in the 19th-century Palais Longchamp along with the Natural History Museum, the city’s Fine Arts Museum contains gems from the 16th to 19th centuries.

Opened during Marseille’s time as European Capital of Culture 2013, MuCEM’s vast collection, spread over three sites including the historic Fort Saint-Jean, showcases the diverse nature of the Mediterranean region.

This remarkable galleried building, designed by Marseille architect Pierre Puget in the 17th century, was originally a poorhouse. It now stages temporary exhibitions, but it’s worth visiting for the building alone.

This 16th-century fortress-turned-prison on an offshore island was where Alexandre Dumas’ fictional Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned. Now open to the public, it’s accessible from the mainland via a regular ferry service.

Try local tipple pastis at this convivial bar in the Plaine area of town.

Start your night with an aperitif on the large terrace of this 1930s-style bar in the Vieux Port.

This popular Marseille club has four different bars, each with a different music style.

Dance the night away at this small club which welcomes local and international DJs.

This atmospheric bar stages regular live jazz nights and has a superb terrace overlooking the harbour.

Tuesdays through Saturdays, this hot artists’ club resounds mostly to strains of live jazz music – but jazz that’s not a million miles from noise, electronic and hip-hop. Some amazing sounds come together on its small stage, which is also home to modern theater and experimental art. Admission is moderate and the audience mostly young.

Located right on the coast, the sublime fish dishes served in this Michelin-starred restaurant are super fresh.

An upmarket brasserie serving some of the best bouillabaisse in town.

This great little place near the old port has a lovely outdoor terrace.

A good value bistro serving both Provençal classics and dishes influenced by the wider Mediterranean.

Ideal for a quick lunch, this relaxed Lebanese restaurant serves delicious falafel, hummus and baklava.