Let’s take things nice and slow. Tucked away amid the congested highways, flashy neon signs and phallic skyscrapers, two fantastic wormholes to the past await us: the Buddhist temple Bengeunsa, completed in 794 A.D. and blotted from view by the massive COEX Center, and an extensive park with royal tombs dating from the days of the Joseon dynasty.

Paris Croissant, Caffe Bene and Coffee Factory – you’ll see one of these stylish Starbuck lookalikes on every – no really, every – street corner of Gangnam. Cafés bathed in trendy industrial lamplight, furnished with shabby chic designer armchairs, and with brightly colored cupcakes in the display. But don’t be deceived: Behind these apparently European or U.S. franchises, there is usually a Korean enterprise whipping up millions with frothy milk. Since 2006, the number of cafés has risen by 887.3 percent to 12,300, and sales have exploded by an inconceivable 1600 percent, even though the young latte consumers are less concerned with flavor – which, by the way, would satisfy even the most fastidious coffee lover – and more with “swag,” with style, with seeing and be seen.

You won’t find Gucci, Armani, Valentino and their likes dominating a single shopping mile in Gangnam; instead, they are scattered liberally across a large area and also, the crowning glory, in a truly enormous, exclusive shopping mall. Compare the density of luxury outlets in this neighborhood with Zurich’s Bahnhofsstraße, Hamburg’s Neuer Wall and the Upper East Side in New York and they look almost anorexic. That’s why, to achieve the perfect “Gangnam style,” you should have at least four weighty shopping bags with glittering logos at your side – and an “oppa,” a “boyfriend” – preferably one with a platinum credit card.

One in five Korean women has already had “work done” – her nose straightened, her eyelids Europeanized, or her breasts enhanced. In her eyes, beauty ultimately has little to do with the luck of the gene pool or divine grace; it’s about work. Why put up with the bags under your eyes that your grandmother passed on when there’s an alternative? The center of the “refurbishing industry” is located right in the middle of Gangnam – obviously. An estimated 2000 cosmetic surgeons practice their craft along the less than two square kilometers of Seoul’s “beauty belt” and compete for improvement seekers with before-and-after photo ads in subway stations and on television – and not just in Korea, by the way, but abroad, too.

“They sip coffee by day and let their hair down at night” – that’s roughly how Psy describes the ideal Gangnam girl. In other words: She will slip into the kinds of high heels you would never risk, clamp a clutch bag under her arm and cover half of her face with an oversized smartphone – but no way will it be an iPhone! Then she’s into a taxi and off to the hippest drag in hip Gangnam: to Garosu-Gil for some late-night retail therapy and her final espresso of the day before heading to the vibrant nightlife area around Gangnam Station – to one of the endless bugeo (puffer fish) restaurants or karaoke bars, where rice wine and Korea’s wheat-based vodka, soju, flow freely. Cheers! Geon-bae!

The Palace of Illustrious Virtue was the Joseon kings’ official residence for 270 years. This UNESCO World Heritage site is one of Seoul’s most popular attractions. Highlights include the throne hall and the Huwon garden.

This slender telecoms tower stands on top of Namsan hill, overlooking downtown Seoul. Its observation platform gives magnificent views across the city and beyond.

This, the appropriately named Palace of Virtuous Longevity, was the last home of the Joseon Dynasty, which ruled for more than 500 years. Its dramatic Changing of the Guards ceremony should not be missed (Tue-Sun 1030, 1400, 1530).

This impressive modern gallery showcases contemporary art by Korean and international artists, as well as traditional Korean arts and crafts. An outdoor area includes modern sculptures by world-famous artists such as Louise Bourgeois.

With some 40,000 exhibits, this museum inside the old walled city recounts the more than 500 years of the Joseon royal Dynasty. As well as displays of ceremonial costumes and regalia, exhibits include a replica of the first water clock and a collection of vintage automobiles.

The UNESCO World Heritage site Royal Ancestral Shrine is a Confucian monument dedicated to the 27 Joseon kings and queens. On the first Sunday in May, costumed worshippers bring offerings to the spirits, accompanied by traditional regal music.

This private collection of Korean antiquities includes many of the country’s most priceless treasures, protected against plunder during the Japanese occupation. It’s only open four weeks a year, so expect long queues.

Behind Changdeokgung Palace, the Secret Garden is a gorgeous retreat from the city crush. Walk down shady paths to pavilions and ponds, all lovingly tended.

The first seat of the Joseon Dynasty, this huge palace was built in 1395. It served as the official centre of government, with formal ceremonies held in its magnificent throne room.

This vast theme park offers a global mix of family entertainment, with dozens of fun and fast rides, from a French Revolution roller coaster to a Jurassic water flume.

Every year a million people turn their hiking boots south and head out of Seoul to Gwanaksan Mountain to climb to the top of ist 632-meter slopes.

Book a hotel room? Boring! Instead, put up a tent on one of Seoul’s five urban campsites and enjoy a good night’s sleep (almost) beneath the open sky.

A jimjilbang is rarely truly peaceful, but the classic Korean version of a bathhouse is an institution no guest departs without a deep sense of relaxation.

Or rather, bridge. In Seoul, young couples often head for Banpo Bridge to see the nightly Moonlight Rainbow Show, a shimmering water feature 1140 meters long.

Everything must go? Nope, this is just business as usual. Every day, around one million people jostle through Myeongdong, Seoul’s favorite shopping district.

Opened in 2017, the123-level Lotte World Tower in the city’s southeastern district of Jamsil is one of the world’s tallest skyscrapers at 555 meters. On the 118th floor, some 500 meters above the ground, it has a glass-floor observation deck – breathtaking!

Seoul is famous for its clubs. Some of the largest, veritable dance temples, are located in the Gangnam district. Most popular music style: electro.

The stallholders at Noryangjin fish market create a cacophony of sound as they vie for custom – and offer passersby delicious sashimi tidbits to sample. Open: 24/7.

A quiet day out? Not at Lotte World, the largest indoor theme park on the planet. One truly unmissable ride is the breathtaking French Revolution rollercoaster.

This leading performance arts centre hosts first-class traditional Korean music, dance and drumming concerts.

Listen to top local and international artists in this sophisticated jazz club.

This city institution serves delicious traditional food, with a touristy but tasteful live show.

Enjoy exquisite Korean cuisine at this delightful 19th-century house and garden.

Authentic congee (savoury rice porridge) is the speciality here; try it with abalone or octopus.

This venerable teahouse also concocts sweet treats such as green tea ice cream and tiramisu.

Superbly spicy Indian and Nepalese food; it’s a bit out of the way but worth the effort.