The strategic heart of the city and popular meeting place, this imposing square is named after 15th-century national hero George Skanderbeg, whose mounted statue stands in the middle. Flanking the square are the city’s main museums, galleries, mosque and clocktower.

Highlights of this, the biggest museum in Albania, include the huge sword of swashbuckling hero Skanderbeg, and 16th-century icons painted by Onufri, one of the country’s best-known artists. Its main collection spans the region’s history, from prehistoric times up to the communist era.

This lovely little mosque overlooking Skanderbeg Square is the oldest survivor of eight mosques built in the city at the end of the 18th century. Check out the impressively painted interior dome and frescoes covering the walls and portico.

This small but well laid-out museum is devoted mostly to Albanian art from the 19th century to the present. Its permanent collection covers themes such as daily life and political commentary; in particular look out for stunning works in the style of Albanian socialist realism.

Dating from some 800 years ago, Byzantine times, this castle formed the original heart of Tirana. Little remains above ground today except for 6m-high walls, now partly built over by a cinema and nightclub.

Another symbol of the former dictatorship, this austere building was designed by Hoxha’s daughter and son-in-law. Part of the exclusive Blloku quarter, former enclave of Communist Party leaders, it is now open to the public and hosts an important national song contest.

This large collection, spanning prehistoric times up to the Middle Ages, is impressive (and free). It includes Roman statues and mosaics, jewellery and weaponry.

This atmospheric site contains the graves of 900 victims of WWII, and an enormous statue of ‘Mother Albania’. It also has stunning views of the city below and surrounding mountains.

Part of the University of Albania, this is the country’s leading performing arts institution, hosting a year-round programme of classical concerts and other shows, with a modern indoor theatre and amphitheatre.

This infamously ugly but iconic building was built as the mausoleum to the former dictator Enver Hoxha Museum. Now graffiti-scrawled and crumbling, its future remains uncertain.

Choose from live music or poetry, or just snuggle up with a cappuccino on the couch in this cosy arts café.

Join the nightly party scene in this lively pub in the heart of Blloku.

From poetry to nightly live rock music, this friendly bar offers a popular eclectic mix.

Tirana’s arty set are drawn to this colourful cocktail bar like moths to a candle.

This hot dance club plays loud hip hop and house music and attracts big-name international DJs.

For a special night out, this elegant restaurant has some of the city’s best French-Italian cuisine.

Tirana’s trendy young crowd flock here for gourmet Mediterranean cuisine.

Dine on delicious Italian and Albanian cuisine in this airy restaurant with outdoor tables.

This Tex-Mex restaurant serves up great food, plus cocktails and even live Mariachi music.

From cheesecake to tapas, a glass of Chianti or a cup of tea, this café covers all the bases.