The impressive Ivan Zajc (1832-1914) National Theater is named after its first director. In addition to the Modello Palace, this 19th-century building is considered one of the masterpieces of late historicism by Viennese architects Fellner and Helmer. The National Theater is a multidisciplinary space that also hosts concerts and ballet performances, making it an attraction for both locals and visitors who do not speak Croatian.

This 700-meter-long grand boulevard is the city’s calling card; its facades read like a book of Rijeka’s eventful history. Art nouveau buildings like the Rauschel House (Korzo 9) and Schittar House (Korzo 23) alternate with classical and modern architecture. The Korzo is a great place to shop, stroll, go out and relax.

This castle above the Kvarner Bay and Rječina River was once an important strategic vantage point for overseeing trade routes. Today, visitors enjoy the beautiful bird’s-eye view of the city. The Sanctuary of Our Lady of Trsat (Gospa Trsatska), a Christian pilgrimage site, is also located on the same hill as the castle. The path to the sanctuary leads up the 500 steps of the Petra Kruzica stairway.

The Sveti Vid Cathedral (English: Saint Vitus, the patron saint of Rijeka) is a baroque rotunda constructed in the 17th century. Of particular note is the beautiful central dome, which is supported by massive marble pillars. The interior of the church is only partially accessible when events are being held.

Rijeka’s colorful farmers and seafood market is housed in a cultural monument: the three art nouveau halls and pavilions are filled with vendors hawking local products, as are the countless stalls lining the nearby streets. Affordable restaurants have also sprung up around the region’s largest farmers market. They offer different daily specials, naturally made with fresh local ingredients from the market.

This tower with a passable gate is Rijeka’s landmark and can be seen from everywhere in the historic downtown. It separates the formerly walled old town from the newer sections of the city. The building is decorated with the double-headed Habsburg eagle and busts of Emperors Leopold I and Charles IV. The clocks on the upper part of the tower still display the correct time.

The natural history museum is located between the Nikola Hosta and Vladimira Nazora Parks. Marine research is the focus of the museum’s permanent exhibit. Attractions include a multimedia center and an aquarium. The museum is suitable for children.

It takes about an hour to drive to Risnjak National Park, and the drive will take you through the Gorski Kotar mountains. Rare animals such as lynxes, wolves, eagles, and brown bears live in the breathtakingly beautiful landscapes of this nature preserve. A restaurant and the park administration office are located at the entrance in Crni Lug. The office provides hiking maps for the various trails, such as the educational trail. Hiking this trail takes about two hours, and the hike is also suitable for children and inexperienced hikers.

The Lungomare is a beautiful twelve-kilometer trail along the Opatija Riviera, parts of which are carved right into the rock. It connects the coastal resort towns from Volosko and the still-elegant Opatija to Brseč. The art nouveau villas from the Danube Monarchy period, which are nestled in gorgeous parks full of magnolias and palms or are perched atop the cliffs, are particularly attractive sights here.

The island of Krk in Kvarner Bay, connected to the mainland by a bridge, is more than just an attractive vacation destination; it is also a popular day trip spot from Rijeka and the coastal resort towns along the Opatija Riviera. The island town of Vrbnik, with its medieval city center, is especially picturesque. The fortress is perched high above the sea and offers a fantastic view of the Velebit Mountains along the mainland coast.

We set out from the ruins of a watermill overgrown with ivy in the forest. The Rječina’s hydropower was used to grind grain here right up to World War I, and the flour thus produced was sent to Germany and exported to as far away as Brazil. Typically for the region, there was a pasta factory in the mill’s immediate vicinity for the convenience of receiving fresh flour supplies. In the sunshine today, a curious sense of tranquility emanates from the mill, which in its heyday employed more than 100 workers to operate its noisy machines.

The lovely thing about old factory buildings is that they spark our imagination. Over a period of 150 years Hartera employed up to 1000 employees for the screening and pressing of pulp to make paper; the mill’s main product was cigarette paper. After the Yugoslav War, Hartera became bankrupt in 2002, and the building has been falling into disrepair ever since. The huge complex with its tall arched windows, antique tiles and colorfully painted doors and stairways is a fine example of industrial architecture. Plans to transform the old paper mill into a culture center have long existed, but the funds to realize them are lacking. For the time being, the mill is to be used as a backdrop for several international films.

The entrance to the club is a semicircular brick archway with finely wrought gratings in front of the windows – the Tunel is located beneath a railway embankment. The drinks are cheap, the music spans techno and jazz, and the club hosts regular live gigs, raves and parties. If you are looking to drink and dance with the locals, this is the place for you.

“Konoba” is the Croatian name for small restaurants that serve good home cooking and Croatian fare. And even though the Fiume is not right on the river, the reason we are making an exception by including it here is its name, because “Fiume” is not only the city’s Italian name, but also the Italian word for “river.” Within her rustic walls across from the market hall, innkeeper Nena serves simple and very good fish dishes at lunchtime; but come in the evening and you will find the door closed. Meals are ordered solely on the cook’s recommendation, as the Fiume has no menu – but it does stock some excellent Croatian white wines.

Lampstands, clocks and watches, cups, sculptures – patterned or gold-plated: Ceramics are the big thing at the Bruketa gallery, which is hardly surprising as it was with ceramics that it all started. In 1974, Vladimir Bruketa and his wife returned here from London and opened the first private art gallery in Yugoslavia with earthenware they crafted and fired themselves. Today, the gallery also sells statement necklaces and rings. In a second gallery, the daughters of the owner couple provide an exhibition space for young Rijekan artists.

Since opening in November 2018, this small cocktail bar has been injecting hipster charm into the southern part of the city and introducing Croatians to cocktails. The highlights here are the bar’s light-bulb installation, its massive lever coffee machine (that turns out really good coffee), and the well-mixed drinks that are served in chunky crystal glasses here in the evening, as well as an extensive selection of spirits and occasionally also live music.

The picturesque Hotel Draga is nestled in the mountains above the Opatija Riviera, around 20 kilometers west of Rijeka. It’s worth taking the short detour to get here, because the young chef of the hotel restaurant, Deni Srdoč, is both bold and traditional in his cooking.

This tavern located on a bridge over the Rječina River offers an extensive menu of fish dishes. Pasta fans should order one of the delicious types of šurlice – dishes with homemade egg noodles.

This restaurant with a chic yet relaxed atmosphere is located on the fortress hill near Trsat Castle. It stands out for its sophisticated Croatian cuisine, as well as its extensive wine list with a good selection of bottles from local wineries.

Granted, Rijeka’s harbor isn’t exactly picturesque. But don’t let that stop you from paying it a visit – and at the southern end of Riva, take a turn toward Molo Longo, the longest pier in Rijeka. This little bistro decorated in light woods serves an exquisite fish soup and freshly caught fish. Remember, though: You pay by the kilo!

This konoba is very popular among the locals – guests rave about its sublime seafood and friendly staff.

Život is a fun little club decorated in 1980s style. They play indie pop, electro, and rock. Concerts are occasionally held here.

In this café and bar on the top floor of the Korzo shopping center, you can enjoy a leisurely day of shopping followed by a relaxing drink with a view of the city.

This café and bar with a swimming pool turns into a techno and house club at night. It was built on the roof of a sports center and offers a gorgeous view over the bay between Rijeka and Opatija.

This café and bar is a cozy meeting spot during the day and a club with live music by night. And as the name indicates, it is housed in a decommissioned train tunnel.

This cozy café at the heart of Rijeka serves delicious specialty coffees. It also offers a wide range of beers and local ciders. In the evenings, the covered patio is a lovely place to sit and relax.