This innovative museum displays work by Azeri and international artists from the mid-20th century to the present day. The paintings, sculptures, and design in the labyrinthine galleries are imaginatively arranged, thematically and for contrasting effect.

This is one of Baku’s most impressive mosques, with intricately carved walls and dome. The current building is just over 100 years old but there has been a mosque on this site since the 12th century; the adjoining minaret dates back to the 14th century.

Still used for Russian Orthodox services, this lovely old 19th-century building is elaborately decorated inside with colourful icons and murals, and topped by the classic onion dome.

Connected to the city below by funicular train, this hilltop cemetery is a memorial to Azeri war casualties, including victims of the 1990 Soviet army assault. There is also a modern Turkish-style mosque here, and the site offers splendid views of the city and beyond.

This tall and massively built tower is the monumental symbol of Baku. Dating back at least to the 12th century, the tower’s original function is disputed, but the superb views from the top are beyond doubt.

This faithfully restored complex of mosques, palaces, baths, tombs and courtyards dates from the 15th-century Shirvanshah dynasty, which ruled Azerbaijan for 1,000 years.

This extensive collection displays Azeri, Russian and worldwide art from prehistoric times to modern movements, housed in two adjacent buildings. The local modern art is particularly interesting.

This curvaceous modern hall holds a wide range of events, concerts and temporary exhibitions, comprising a museum, library and conference centre. It’s worth seeing for Zaha Hadid’s stunning design and spacious grounds alone.

The oldest public baths in Baku are a great way to unwind from the traffic chaos outside, with Turkish-style steam baths in private rooms. Treatments available include ‘skin peel’ and massage; there’s also a delightful tea room.

Housed in a beautiful old building, with statues of writers inset in its facade, this museum holds a collection of exquisite manuscripts from Azerbaijan, Russia and the Far East. Unfortunately, without any labelling, sometimes it’s impossible to know what you’re looking at.

One of the best places in Baku to hear live traditional music and dance, in a palatial setting.

The city’s largest indoor performance centre, hosting a wide range of concerts and shows.

Home of the Azerbaijani State Symphony Orchestra, this classic building was modelled on the Monte Carlo Casino.

Baku’s hottest nightclub, attracting the city’s beautiful set six nights a week.

Smooth jazz entertains guests at this upscale club in Baku’s futuristic Flame Towers.

Tasty local cuisine and live folk music make this palatial restaurant a special treat.

Apart from the rooftop views, the food in this international restaurant is delicious and good value.

This chic seafront restaurant specialises in modern Azeri cuisine, with fine wines and cocktails.

Traditional Turkish cuisine is the speciality in this friendly little restaurant.

The bustling ambience and spicy dishes draw a loyal clientele to this Indian curry house.