Tokyo calls for a plan. And comfy shoes. The city is simply too crowded, too stuffy and too gigantic to make setting out to explore at random an option. We prepare our day’s route in the comfortable beds of Hotel Niwa Tokyo. The rooms of this boutique hotel are not very big – of course not, we are in Tokyo, after all, where the use of every last square meter is carefully thought through. The decor takes its cue from traditional Japanese aesthetics: plenty of wood, light colors, everything very streamlined and purist, and windows with the typical Japanese wood-frame paper blinds.

Even if it can be a little difficult for tall Europeans to find their size in some of the clothes stores here, a visit to the world-famous shopping district is an absolute must. It is the beating heart of Japan’s trendy society with money to spend. It’s a good idea to plan this trip for the first half of the day when you still have enough energy reserves because once you exit Harajuku Station, there will be nothing for it but to let yourself be carried along by the crowds. All of the world’s luxury brands, from Comme des Garçons to Isabel Marant, appear to have at least one shop of their own on Omotesandō Street.

After all the hustle and bustle, we find some peace and tranquility in the old town neighborhood Yanaka. The district survived the severe earthquake of 1923 and Tokyo’s heart really does seem to beat a little more slowly here. The best plan here is to rent a bicycle, from Tokyobike, for example, to explore the neighborhood, which is famous for its small workshops and studios, its ceramics shops and galleries. One highlight here is the Matsunoya store, which was established in 1945 and could even be the role model for the Muji lifestyle chain. The owner, Hiroshi Matsuno, travels throughout the country in search of everyday products, such as baskets, lamps and brooms made by unknown, often traditional artisan workshops. Like Muji, Matsunoya names no brands.

We continue by bicycle or on foot toward Ueno Station, through vast Ueno Park, past a handful of museums, like the highly recommendable Tokyo National Museum, which houses the world’s largest collection of Japanese art. We are headed for the lively area around Ameyoko shopping mile.

We did our homework and watched Sofia Coppola’s 2003 masterpiece Lost in Translation  again before flying out. And that’s why this is what we need now: We drop in on one of the many sky bars in the city. But it doesn’t have to be the elegant, but often overcrowded New York Bar in the Park Hyatt Hotel, where actors Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson once sat.

A key Buddhist site, Sensō-ji enshrines an image of Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. The temple has been rebuilt over the centuries, but this colourful spot is a beautiful, not to mention peaceful, counterpoint to the buzz of central Tokyo.

The second tallest tower in the world opened its doors in 2012 and has fast become one of Tokyo’s hottest attractions. Zip up to the top on a clear day and you’ll get sweeping views of the vast metropolitan area and even Mount Fuji.

Reputedly the largest fish market in the world, Toyosu Fish Market opened for business in October 2018. Its predecessor, the legendary Tsukiji Fish Market, was well known and well loved for its quaint, old fashioned atmosphere. But modern Toyosu is also worth a visit. Its tumultuous auctions begin at five in the morning, and visitors can observe them from a gallery – or sample the market’s fresh specialities at one of its over 40 food outlets.

The largest museum in Japan, Tokyo’s National Museum has the biggest collection of Japanese art in the world. There are six different galleries, which play home to a variety of ancient artefacts and stunning Buddhist-influenced pieces.

Fans of modern art, both Japanese and western, should definitely make time for this sprawling space. Alongside standard artworks, you’ll find 21st-century takes on Japanese flower arranging and ink brush paintings.

The Imperial Palace itself, built on the site of the old Edo Castle, only opens its doors twice a year as it is still home to Japan’s imperial family. Its pretty gardens, however, are open throughout the year and look particularly beautiful during spring cherry blossom season.

The neon-lit streets of Akihabara district are a byword for Japan’s love of all things technology. Duck into an arcade and play classic titles, trawl the stores looking for second-hand bargains and amazing anime, or just take in the whole chaos of it all.

Probably the most famous road crossing in the world (and certainly the busiest), Shibuya buzzes with people 24 hours a day. If you’re after a good view of locals bustling across, then head into Shibuya train station to see it all in action from a dedicated platform near the Hachiko exit.

This magical museum focuses on the work of renowned Japanese animator and filmmaker Hayao Miyazaki. Learn how classics such as Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle were made, and marvel at the fantastical models and designs on show.

A fascinating insight into the changes in Japanese advertising. From the years before the country opened up to foreign trade in the late 19th century to US-influenced occupation-era posters, this small museum has a wonderful collection. Admission is free.

This highly rated izakaya is a great spot for grabbing a few local beers.

One of Tokyo’s most famous izakaya has the feel of a German beer hall. Snacks and booze abound.

Tokyo’s biggest club can hold up to 5,000 people. A free shuttle takes revellers there from Shibuya.

A short walk from Shibuya, this mega club is the place to see world-famous DJs do their thing.

Expect both local and international acts in this mid-sized, rock-music venue right in the heart of trendy Shibuya.

Three Michelin stars, 10 seats and arguably the best sushi in the world.

Renowned for serving the delicacy of blowfish, this is one of Tokyo’s most unique eateries.

The Sushi Dai is one of the many well-known sushi restaurants that moved with the old Tsukiji Fish Market to its new site in Toyosu. As the restaurant is very small, it’s a good idea to book a place when you first arrive at the market so that you can be sure of eating there when you’ve finished your tour. What’s special about the Sushi Dai is that in addition to the omakase, the day’s menu, it also offers a small selection of cooked dishes.

Superb tempura bowls that won’t break the bank, this Shinjuku joint is a winner.

You can’t come to Tokyo and miss out on its famous ramen. Ippudo is one of the best places in the city.